Rites of joy: 'Galungan' and 'Kuningan'

Features - May 18, 2006


Ritual is part and parcel of the daily life of a Balinese Hindu. Following the solemnity of Nyepi, the Day of Silence, on March 30, when Balinese entered the new year Saka 1928, adults and children burst into joyous celebration on May 3 with Galungan and 10 days later, with Kuningan on May 13.

Galungan and Kuningan were not only marked in the temples, but also in the streets. In Ubud, dozens of youths and teenagers joined the Barong dance -- a kind of mythical lion locally called Ngelawang -- and bystanders made "donations" to the dance troupes as they snaked their way down the streets to the accompaniment of traditional music.

Meanwhile, Balinese women carried meter-high offerings of fruit, flowers and food on their heads and marched in a colorful procession to Hindu temples across the paradise isle.

Another important part of the twin rites is the bathing ceremony of the Barong, which is conducted five days after Galungan and five days before Kuningan.

Galungan -- marking victory of good over evil -- always falls on a Wednesday. Kuningan concludes the rejoicing.

At Tanah Lot, the sacred mask depicting the mythical beast is cleansed in the Pemancekan Agung. The ritual is a joy not only for Balinese, but also for tourists visiting the enchanted, spiritual destination.

-- P.J. Leo